Join us on the 27th of August for a photowalk and lunch. We will meet at Blackness Castle 11am and then walk along St Ninian’s Way to Abercorn.
See the Events/Photowalks page for more details of our planned Sunday summer day trips.
The second Sunday LoFi outing of the summer is on August the 14th.
Join us from 11am in Queensferry to take in the view of the new bridge and Port Edgar.
Across the road bridge for lunch at North Queensferry. Join us at the Albert Hotel Bar or bring a picnic.
After lunch we will stroll along the cliffs to the beach for some impromptu cyanotype photograms and seascapes.
While there is bus and train transport options we are organising a carpool and lunch reservations will also be made, so please get in contact for carpooling / lunch.
Please see the photo-walks event page for full details of the day (with map).
The next photo-walk is planned for the 2nd Sunday of September, the 11th.
This summers Edinburgh LoFi exhibition takes a plastic lens and colour film as it’s starting point. 10 members have returned to the techniques and technology which inspired the groups inception. Making the most of basic photographic equipment – a lightproof box and some colour sensitive film – the members have applied imagination and experience to produce a range of exciting new works which push the medium, molding and modelling light.
The exhibition is available to view at the Art & Design Library from Monday the 4th, with the opening night on Tuesday the 5th from 6pm. All welcome.
The first LoFi photowalk of the summer is almost here – Sunday 10th July.
The 19th century façade is the perfect subject to capture with vintage cameras, but there are plenty of opportunities for landscape, waterscape and wildlife too.
Please see the photowalks event page for full details of the day.
The results of those from the group who have submitted to pinholeday.org can be found in the Edinburgh LoFi Gallery
Work must be submitted to them by 31st May to be included in the 2016 on-line exhibition. (Select
Edinburgh LoFi in the gallery group option.)
Email images in for our website at any time, we all want to see the cameras made and how the images made turned out. DIY instructions, tips and tricks welcome.
Edinburgh has a long history of Salt Prints. Ranging back to the late 1830’s Hill and Adamson used the technique to produce prints using Talbot’s process. One of their subjects was the fishing village of Newhaven.
Some of the negatives have now been made into Salt Prints and a Japanese bound album has been made to hold them.
Salt Printing involves 4 stages –
Please be aware that the chemicals used are dangerous, ensure that you are familiar with and use all safety precautions necessary.
Further reading –
A simple 35mm film camera can be made from just some card and tape.
To make a matchbox style pinhole camera you will need
A piece of A4 card – preferably black. (Paint black or cover with black tape if not.)
Download the PDF template and print.
Black electrical tape.
Good quality tinfoil.
A hole punch or sharp knife.
A needle of suitable dimension to make the pinholes.
A 35mm roll of film.
An 35mm used film spool or sacrificial roll.
Do some simple pinhole maths –
Focal length of lens (the depth of matchbox) = (diameter pinhole) X (diameter pinhole) X 750
√(15/750) = 0.20mm (~ A size 14 beading needle was the closest size to hand.)
Start by tracing the template onto black card and cutting out.
Cut the window for the film and the window for the pinhole.
Fold along the score lines.
Take the piece of tinfoil and make the pinhole using the needle. Use tape to stick it to the inside of the box so the pinhole is in the center of the pinhole window you have made.
Take the new roll of film and attach the film using clear tape to the used film spool. You may find it easiest to just sacrifice a film (Agfa £1 from Poundland!) by un-spooling it until almost the end, cutting off the film to leave a few centimeters sticking out. You can then tape the end of the ‘good’ film to the tail. It is also possible to reassemble a used spool if care was taken prising it apart. Ensure the films are together straight or you will have problems winding on. Wind the film in until you can not see the tape. Only try to expose the film strip where you will be putting the ‘matchbox’. (To use a real matchbox thread the film through then attach to other spool and put the drawer back in after cutting a window for the film in the bottom).
Put the side labelled ‘back’ at the back of the film, use some re-positionable tape to get the spools lined up.
Fold the box round so the film window sits in front of the film. Use some re-positionable tape to get the box squared up with the spools.
Use black electricians tape wrapped around everything (except the pinhole and the moving parts of the film spools!) to light proof.
Wind the film on into the take up spool using a lolly stick or key in the top of the spool. 2 full rotations per frame at first, decreasing to 1 as you get towards the end ( the film taken up expands the diameter and therefore the length moved at each turn). If the film sticks use the stick/key to loosen the other spool and then take up the slack with the other.
Make a shutter for the pinhole with a piece of black electrical tape.
To take photos wind the film on. Brace the camera on a wall/table/post if possible to keep it steady and peel off the tape. Replace the tape when finished. (For very short exposures peel the tape and replace it with a finger. Expose for shot then put your finger back and ease the tape back into place as you move your finger out the way.)
When the film is finished wind it back into the original cannister and cut the spool from the camera. Make sure none of the tape is left on the film to be processed.
You may wish to warn the film processor that the frames are likely to be unevenly spaced. Most will be happy to return the film uncut for scanning.
We processed our own at Stills and here are some of the results from the group: